JUMP TO A SECTION
The first day after a storm damages your roof is worth more than any day that follows it, because almost everything that makes this cheaper or more expensive gets decided in the next twenty-four hours. Water that is contained tonight does not rot a deck next week. Damage that is photographed before anyone cleans up is damage you can prove. A roof that is stabilized fast stops adding to the bill. None of that requires you to climb anything or fix anything; the whole first-day job is protecting people and the structure, in the right order, and getting the right professional moving. This page is the action companion to the claim-side paperwork covered elsewhere on the site, and it is written the same straight way we write every figure on our honest pricing sheet: do this now, leave that alone, and here is what the real repair runs once someone can see it in daylight.
If you smell gas or see a downed power line, do not investigate. Get everyone out and call 911 and your utility from a safe distance. And no matter what the roof looks like, do not go up on it after a storm: storm-damaged decking fails underfoot in ways you cannot see, and wet shingles have no traction. Everything on this checklist is done from inside the house or from the ground.
01 / THE ORDERThe whole first day, in sequence
Panic scrambles the order, and the wrong order costs money and sometimes safety. So before the detail, here is the entire first twenty-four hours in one clean sequence you can work top to bottom. Safety first, because nothing else matters if someone gets hurt. Then the photo pass, because the second you start moving and mopping, the evidence changes. Then containment inside, because that is what actually limits the damage. Then the one call that gets the roof stabilized. Then the folder, started the same day, so nothing has to be reconstructed from memory later.
Read the ledger below as your map for the rest of this page. Each row is a section, and each section is a short checklist you can run by flashlight if the power is out. If you only have five minutes right now, do the safety sweep and the photo pass, then come back for the rest.
02 / SAFETY FIRSTFirst, the safety sweep
Before you assess a single shingle, assess whether the house is safe to be in. Most storm-damaged homes are, but the ones that are not give warning signs, and reading them is the most important thing you will do all night. Walk this list calmly, and if anything on it is in doubt, treat the answer as get out and call for help rather than tough it out.
- Gas and electrical come first. If you smell gas or hear hissing, leave immediately and call 911 and the gas company from outside. If you see a downed line touching the house or a tree, stay far back and call the utility. Water pooling near an outlet, a fixture, or the panel means cut that circuit at the breaker before you go near it, and never flip a wet switch to test it.
- Look and listen for structural trouble. A sagging or bulging ceiling, a dipping ridge line, new cracks in walls or plaster, doors and windows that suddenly stick, or creaking and popping sounds overhead all mean the structure may be compromised. If a tree or limb came through the roof, assume the area beneath it is unsafe and stay out from under it.
- Decide room by room. Close the door on any room with a sagging ceiling or an active structural concern and keep people out of it. You do not need to clear the whole house for one bad room, but you do need to respect the rooms that are telling you something.
- Know when the house is not yours to clear. After severe damage, a professional or your local building department decides whether a home is safe to occupy, not a hopeful homeowner at midnight. If the warning signs above are stacking up, err toward spending the night somewhere else and getting it looked at in daylight.
This is the part of the checklist people are tempted to skip because they want to get to the roof. Do not skip it. A wet ceiling can be dried and a shingle can be replaced; a fall through weakened framing or a contact with live wiring cannot be undone. Our companion guide on the duty to protect your property from further damage makes the same point from the insurance side: reasonable steps taken safely are exactly what is expected of you, and heroics on a broken roof are not.
03 / THE RECORDThe ground-level photo pass, before you clean
The storm left evidence all over your property, and it starts disappearing the moment you begin cleaning up. So once the house is confirmed safe enough to move around in, the very next thing, before you move a branch or mop a floor, is a photo pass. It costs nothing but a few minutes and a phone, and it is the single most valuable non-safety task on this list. Shoot everything from the ground and from inside. Do not climb a ladder to get a better angle, and do not go on the roof.
- The roof from the ground, every side. Walk the perimeter and photograph each elevation of the roof with your phone zoom. Missing or lifted shingles, a peeled-back section, a punctured spot, or a limb resting on the roof all read clearly from the yard. Get wide shots that show the whole slope and zoomed shots of the specific damage.
- What landed and what fell. Photograph fallen limbs, downed trees, shingles and debris in the yard or the gutters, and any dented metal, gutters, or vents. Where the debris is matters as much as the debris itself, so shoot it where it lies before you drag it off.
- Every interior sign of water. Ceiling stains, active drips, a bulge, wet insulation, water on the floor, and damaged furniture or belongings all go on camera before cleanup. A short video that shows water actively coming in is powerful.
- Wide context shots. Include a few pictures that place the damage on your house and street, so it is obvious this was your roof in this storm and not something old. If you can safely note the date and time, do it; most phones stamp that automatically.
- Do not clean or toss anything first. Resist the urge to tidy before you shoot. Cleaned-up damage is harder to document, and a removed branch is a fact you can no longer prove.
Keep this pass about creating a record, not about arguing a claim. If the damage turns out to be storm damage that a policy may cover, this is precisely the documentation an insurer and an adjuster will want, and a roofer can photograph the source from the roof and meet your adjuster on site once the roof is safe to access. No contractor can promise how a claim resolves, and nothing here is insurance advice. Tonight the photos simply mean the truth of what happened is saved. If shingles are what went missing, our guide on shingles blown off a roof walks the 24 to 48 hour plan for that specific case.
04 / LIMIT THE DAMAGEContain the water inside
With the house safe and the record made, the next job is limiting what the water does between now and the repair. Contained water ruins far less than water left to spread across a ceiling and down into walls. All of this happens inside, from the ground, and stays off ladders and out from under any ceiling that is sagging. Work it in order.
- Move what the water can reach. Slide furniture, electronics, and rugs out from under the drip and a few feet around it. Getting valuables clear first is minutes well spent.
- Catch and channel the drips. Set buckets or totes under active drips and lay towels or plastic sheeting to protect the floor. A drip that has found one path tends to keep using it, so aim the catch at the low point where the water is actually falling, and keep a spare container to rotate before one overflows.
- Relieve a small ceiling bulge, or clear the room. A small, firm drywall bulge full of water is usually safer drained into a bucket through one small hole at its lowest point than left to fall on its own. A wide sag, cracking plaster, or a light fixture in the bulge means leave it, close the door, and keep everyone out.
- Check the attic before the ceiling. If you can safely reach the attic, water is often catchable up there before it ever reaches your finished ceiling. Step only on the joists, mind the wiring, and divert active flow into a container. Flag and pull saturated insulation so it stops dumping water below.
- Keep power off where water is present. Any circuit feeding a wet fixture, outlet, or switch stays off at the breaker until an electrician or the roofer says otherwise.
None of this is a repair, and none of it is meant to be. It is containment that buys the hours until a crew can stabilize the roof and, later, fix it properly. Doing it is also part of protecting your own interests: taking reasonable steps to prevent further damage is exactly what a policy expects, which is the whole point of our guide on the duty to mitigate. Save any receipts for tarps, buckets, or plastic sheeting; they belong in the folder in section six.
05 / THE ONE CALLMake the tarping call
If the storm left the roof open to the sky, with missing shingles over bare decking, a puncture, or a hole, the roof needs to be covered before the next rain, and that is a job for a crew, not a homeowner on a wet ladder. This is the call that stops the bleeding. Our phones are staffed for scheduling and free inspections Monday through Saturday, and our one around-the-clock service is 24/7 emergency tarping for roofs actively open to the weather.
Two honest notes on timing. First, if the storm is still overhead, a tarping crew cannot safely deploy in high wind or lightning, so calling during the storm gets you scheduled and staged rather than putting someone on your roof in the next ten minutes. They move the moment the wind drops and the sky is safe. Second, tarping stops water; it does not fix a roof. A proper tarp is coverage carried up past the ridge and anchored so it holds without punching a field of unnecessary new holes, and it is meant as a bridge to a scheduled repair, not a season-long solution. What professional tarping actually involves is laid out in our pillar guide on emergency roof tarping.
Not every storm hit needs a tarp tonight. If the shingles are gone but the underlayment beneath them is intact and the interior is dry, you often have days rather than hours, and a fast-scheduled repair is the right path instead of an overnight tarp. The permanent scope gets priced in daylight after a free inspection, and most storm damage turns out to be a repair rather than a replacement: a wind-lifted patch of shingles, a failed flashing detail, or a pipe boot that let go. Repairs in Macomb County run $350 to $3,200, and larger or complex repairs can run higher. You can start that path from the repair estimator or get a ballpark on your own roof in about a minute with the cost calculator.
Big wind events bring out-of-state crews to Macomb County doors within a day or two, promising free roofs and asking you to sign on the first visit. Do not. Take photos, call your own insurer, and get a local inspection before you sign anything, especially before an adjuster has seen the roof. Our guide on door-to-door roofers after a storm covers the pressure tactics to watch for at door-to-door roofers after a storm.
06 / THE PAPER TRAILStart the folder today
The last first-day task takes ten minutes and pays off for weeks. Start one folder, physical or on your phone, and put everything storm-related in it starting today. Same-day records are the strongest kind, and a claim, if you file one, moves faster when the evidence was gathered while it was fresh rather than pieced together a month later.
- All the photos and videos. The full ground-level pass and every interior shot go in first. Keep the originals; do not crop or edit them.
- A short timeline. Note the date and rough time of the storm, when you first noticed the damage or the leak, and whether it tracked with wind or the heaviest rain. A few lines is plenty.
- Every receipt. Tarps, buckets, plastic sheeting, a hotel night if the house was unsafe, any emergency service. These are the mitigation costs that often matter later.
- A call log. Who you called and when: the utility, your insurer, the roofer. Note names and any claim or reference numbers you are given.
- Your policy basics. Find your homeowners policy number and your carrier's claims line and drop them in the same folder so you are not hunting for them tomorrow.
Keep the folder about protecting yourself, not about building a case. Whether and how a claim resolves is between you, your policy, and your adjuster, and the claim mechanics live on our storm and insurance claims page rather than here. One local note worth keeping in mind as you decide how seriously to take a storm: Macomb County has real recent history with severe wind. After the August 2023 storms, the county was included in federal disaster declaration DR-4757. Wind events like that lift shingles and break seals in ways that are invisible from the ground and only show themselves the next time it rains, so a roof that took a blow deserves a look even if the ceiling stayed dry. A free inspection is a cheap way to know where you stand, and you can browse the rest of our storm damage service or the full guides library once the coffee is on and the house is dry.
- Safety before shingles: gas, wires, and structural sag decide whether the house is safe to be in tonight.
- Do the ground-level photo pass before you clean up anything; cleaned-up damage is harder to prove.
- Contain water inside from the ground and the attic, and keep power off wherever water is present.
- Tarping stops water tonight if the roof is open; the permanent repair, $350 to $3,200, is scoped in daylight.
- Start one folder today with photos, a timeline, receipts, and a call log, while everything is fresh.
Questions we hear most
Check for danger before anything else: leave and call 911 if you smell gas or see a downed power line, and cut power to any circuit where water is near a fixture or outlet. Once the house is safe, do a ground-level photo pass before you clean up, then contain the water inside. Do not go on the roof, and call for emergency tarping if the roof is open to the sky.
Only if the roof is open to the weather, with bare decking exposed, a puncture, or a hole, before the next rain. If the shingles are gone but the underlayment is intact and the inside is dry, a fast-scheduled repair is usually the right call instead. Our 24/7 emergency tarping is for roofs actively open to the sky, deployed as soon as conditions are safe. Call (586) 300-1746 to get on the schedule.
Most storm damage turns out to be a repair rather than a replacement, and repairs in Macomb County run $350 to $3,200, with larger or complex repairs running higher. Tarping stabilizes the roof and the permanent scope is priced in daylight after a free inspection. No contractor can promise a claim outcome, and financing is available for the permanent work, subject to approval.
- FEMA, disaster declaration DR-4757-MI, Michigan severe storms of August 2023 (Macomb County designated). fema.gov/disaster/4757
- Ready.gov (FEMA), emergency preparedness guidance for storms and home hazards. ready.gov
- Insurance Information Institute, consumer explainers on homeowners policy coverage, deductibles, and the claims process. iii.org
- Your city or township building department: reroofing permit requirements and fee schedules are set locally in Macomb County; see the county directory of communities. macombgov.org